Arriving at Lo Manthang, the traditional power center of trans-Himalayan authority and a historically powerful state, it was around 5:30 PM. It was the 30th day of the first month of the year according to Nepali Calendar.
Experiencing a day that felt meaningful in life was no small matter. Oh! Lo Manthang—the place I had heard of since childhood! Within its earthen walls lay earthen houses and a civilized earthen palace. Today, to witness Lo Manthang’s civilization firsthand was certainly no trivial opportunity.
Climate change in the high Himalayas
Our vehicle moved forward as I traveled with senior journalist Harihar Virahi. It felt as if we had toured the Lo Manthang town, or the civilization itself, in just a short ride. A small settlement nestled among the Himalayan landscape, beside it a small stream, perhaps of strategic importance—during the state’s peak, outsiders would have had to cross it to enter the settlement. This tiny stream probably helped protect the settlement back then.
A small local market served its people; the majority of the buyers were locals rather than tourists. Across the stream were tiny hills shaped like little mounds, with neither greenery nor snow. Later, we learned that the original Lo Manthang was not this market area but lay inside the massive mud-and-stone walls, now painted red and white, visible from the outside. Our curiosity and anticipation centered on entering these walls. Alongside me, Birahi Dai and senior journalist Taranath Dahal shared the same eager anticipation.
The journey from Jomsom highlighted that climate change has had the greatest impact on Nepal’s high Himalayan regions. Overall, climate change has not only affected the environment but also created human crises. Age-old traditions and cultures are vanishing.
Indigenous agricultural systems, techniques, and traditional foods are disappearing. Human relations, social structures, and geographic assets are affected. The relationship between humans and wildlife has also been disturbed, and climate change has triggered new conflicts between tradition and modernity. Lo Manthang, and Mustang as a whole, are no exception.
Making democracy more accountable
As a participant in the Lo Manthang International Media Summit organized by the Nepal Press Union, my understanding of climate change deepened. Studying from books differs greatly from experiencing situations firsthand.
Moreover, assessing the situation and formulating strategies for action is yet another matter. It is fortunate that the 20-point declaration issued by the Press Union in Lo Manthang nearly four months ago remains extremely relevant.
The declaration highlighted environmental issues and noted: due to disappointment and anger toward political leadership and growing neglect of the political system, reforms are needed to make democracy accountable and results-oriented.
Had this point been addressed in time, some of the tragic consequences of poor governance after the Gen Z movement—which caused the deaths of people and substantial property loss on September 8 and 9—might have been mitigated.
The declaration emphasized that political parties and civil society organizations complement democracy; their cooperation and balance help make the state accountable, democratic, and responsive.
The Nepal Press Union called for a proactive role in continuously improving the political system. Unfortunately, the state never took this seriously, forcing us to witness a historic tragedy.
Inside Lo Manthang Palace, the declaration was released in the presence of Rural Municipality Chief Tasi Norbu Gurung, local intellectual Karma Bangel, senior journalists Harihar Birahi, Taranath Dahal, Hari Binod Adhikari, Union President Shiv Lamsal, Senior Vice President Prem KC, Vice Presidents Nakul Aryal and Tanka Adhikari, General Secretary Dilip Paudel, Treasurer Madhav Dhital, and journalists Poshanath Adhikari, Lokraj Awasthi, and Narayan Adhikari.
Before and after the release, we toured the palace area. That night, we stayed at Hotel Mystic. By the time we arrived, it was around 7:30 PM. After tea and coffee, we discussed Lo Manthang’s history, civilization, and the impacts of climate change with Chief Gurung, hotel operator Rambahadur, and Karchung Lhamo Gurung. Earlier, similar discussions took place at the palace with senior Karma.
Natural and human crises in the Himalayas
During discussions on climate, I recalled a study by the Mangrove Foundation, shared by journalist Lokraj Awasthi. According to the study, high-altitude areas have experienced dramatic changes over recent decades. Mountains once covered in snow are now barren and dry. Glacial, snow-covered, and ice-bound regions in the Himalayas are shrinking faster than the global average. https://english.nepalnews.com/s/travel-tourism/that-thrilling-night-in-lo-manthang/